I’m almost ready, the end is in sight, the thrilling goal is almost within reach. For two solid months now I’ve been painting and sewing, putting together an exhibition of portraits of my dear friends wearing my wearable art
and creating a small but very political collection that pulls no punches. I’m overwhelmed with the feeling of urgency right now, the feeling that time is running out, for me , for you for all of us. We have no time to waste. Things have to change and we can’t sit idly by and wait. We have to be part of that change. This is why I’ve created this new collection that is called URGENT. It’s been made entirely from upcycled tshirts and second hand clothes that have been taken apart and reinterpreted. I’m keen to not add to the waste , being eco friendly and sustainable isn’t just a fashion statement, it’s vital to keep us from an early departure off of this beautiful planet of ours. There is a new punk energy reemerging, probably echoing the Tory female prime minister who we have right now in Brexit UK ( long may it never happen), recalling the heady , riot strewn days of Thatcher. There is a real sense of deja vu going on, except that now the energy isn’t about destroy, it’s the opposite, it’s create and protect. We are wise to the real push of Establishment and Neo-Liberal politics : to create wars to make money. To be anti establishment nowadays means to be a pacifist. This energy to push for peace forms the backbone of my work, to bond with other women in sisterhood, to offer the hand of peace and understanding to those who have misunderstood us, to engage in critical thinking and holistic debate that takes the bigger picture into account rather than focusing on the isolated details that keep us at each other’s throats.The exhibition/event THE LONDON STYLE TRIBE TRIBUTE SHOW is going to be held at the wonderful Resistance Gallery in Poyser Street , Bethnal Green on the 17th/18th September, Saturday and Sunday, from 5pm to 1am each day. There will be large portraits, wearable art, a catwalk with a difference, showcasing 6 original alternative designers, spoken word, stand up, live music including the wonderful Featherz ( Saturday ) and anarchistwood ( Sunday ) plus a very special act to be announced. It’s all terribly , terribly exciting. I can’t wait to see you all there.
We are in the middle of a war but we just can’t be bothered to fight. The enemy we are fighting is apathy. Well, I believe so anyway.
I don’t know about you, but all I see around me are people who have given up, given up and given in to going along with what ‘they’ tell us. I don’t blame anyone for taking this path. It is the path of least resistance. When life is hard, when you struggle everyday just to pay your rent, put food on the table for yourself and or your family, I can’t blame anyone for keeping to the essentials and letting things ‘out there’ just slide. I’m going to get a little political and say this is down to Neo Liberalism that informs us that we are islands and as long as we are okay, then never mind about the rest, that as Margaret Thatcher famously suggested ‘there is no such thing as society”
Professor Gail Dines explores this connection and how it affects us in this speech she gave at the Feminism in London Conference a while back. It’s really worth a listen.
When our government punishes the most vulnerable, by cutting disability living allowances ( affecting many of my dear friends) , celebrates the fall in unemployment when actually all that is happening is that more people are prepared to work for zero hours contracts and unpaid internships ( exploitation) or there are people like me, who are self employed, trying to find their own way of making money without any security of holiday /pension or sick pay, there is little wonder that we feel disenfranchised. We , the little people, feel powerless as we watch the rise of the super rich , making London their playground. Relentless gentrification pushes out the ‘unsavoury’ element whilst stealing their cool.
We are all suffering from the disease of disconnection. We mourn the loss of intimacy in our relationships as we consume more and more pornography. We are becoming separate from each other : the divide and conquer rule has almost had us beaten. Almost.
Take a look at the photo at the top of this post. It is of a cushion cover I embroidered for my living room with a quote by the wonderful Alice Walker. ” The most common way people give up their power is thinking they don’t have any.” We have power, we’ve just been infected by apathy , telling us we don’t. Of course the media is helping, there’s recently been a massive uprising of protest in France after the Socialist government made sweeping changes to employment law. The pictures of this protest that popped up on social media were impressive, the streets were filled with people coming together to protest. NO official media channel reported it. We had to rely on the people’s media: the Internet to even hear about it.
So what’s this got to do with Gucci , I hear you ask? ( referencing the title of this blog post). Well , a few days ago I noticed that Gucci’s latest catwalk collection that was shown in Westminster Abbey bore a striking resemblance to my own aesthetic , as a maker of wearable art. I looked into this further to also discover that the same designer for the same collection, had launched a concept bag where the customer could choose elements to decorate a Gucci bag .
Gucci May2016
DDianeGoldie April2015
This stung. I had been doing this for over a year , as a way of helping my fans have an affordable way of having a bit of the Diane Goldie aesthetic. Of course, the bags weren’t Gucci. When you sell them for under £100 , this is a given. This was far too much of a coincidence to just be coincidence. I felt sick. A magazine article confirmed my fears:
The collection had been ‘inspired’ by British ( London) subcultures and there was even a mention of ‘tribe’.
Reaction amongst my friends was fairly consistent. There seemed to be a general feeling of annoyance but tinged with ‘you should be flattered’. I didn’t feel flattered. I felt rage.
I know why I feel rage. This is political. This is because we are trained to just accept this exploitation ( because of course , besides there being virtually no protection of copyright in fashion , as a small fry, I’d have no hope in hell of suing the big boys). I have a very smart friend, Dannie-Lu Carr, who has addressed the root of this problem , the need for constant turnover in creative arts , leading to theft of concepts and aesthetics , calling it the Hypercycle. Here is her Ted X talk explaining it.
I am by no means the first and won’t be the last to be victim of this syndrome but I’m not going to just lie back and ‘be flattered’.
NO!
What I intend to do is to take this rage and to use it to put on a protest art event during London fashion week in September that focuses on this exploitation of the little folk. We may be small fry, but there are LOTS of us. Lots of us , all singing together will make a BIG noise.
I’m going to paint portraits of my friends, many of them creatives themselves, wearing my aesthetic to cement it in art and in time as my art. There will be a #fuckfashion show and other art events focusing on raising awareness and kicking back. This is about the tribe coming together and saying HELL NO, WE MATTER.
There is a crowdfunding page to help us raise funds to secure the venue and pay for necessary costs of staging this. Could you help out?
On Thursdays I often head out East to London’s Spitalfield’s Market to meet with my dear friend Sue Kreitzman and have a coffee and wander around the delightfully eclectic flea market. If you haven’t been, you really must , if you like a good treasure hunt.
This time was going to end up with me taking home the most delightfully camp fabric ever. Sue was gifted this fabric by one of the stall holders who has been one of Sue’s biggest fans for a long time. ( Sue is our goddess, if you meet her, you’ll understand) Here is the lovely stall holder holding up the fabric in question.
See what I mean? It was an absolute confection of sequin fabric, in shades of turquoise , pink and purple with a touch of black and silver. Very heavy, I wondered what Sue would do with it. Well, Sue gave it to me and asked me to make her a kimono out of it. Hmm, this was going to be different to the usual kimonos.
I decided I was going to use the sequin fabric for front and back of the kimono and team it with Dutch Wax print in my stock for the sleeves , trim and pockets to make sure it was comfortable to wear. Sequins are sparkly but they can be awfully scratchy if you get them on a seam.
I had no intention of putting any image on the back of this one. After all, it was so sparkly to start with. I didn’t want to overdo it , did I? As soon as I had these thoughts , I laughed out loud to myself. I had to remember I was making something for Sue, who coined the phrase ‘More is More’ . So I found one of Sue’s gorgeous embellished paintings of an angel cat sitting on a woman’s head ( well of course)
and decided that the colours would work really well. I couldn’t completely replicate the painting as it was covered in buttons and buttons and sequins would make this garment far too heavy to wear, so I decided to make a version of my own, using Sue’s artwork as the inspiration.
I could have painted my version on fabric and then appliqued it , but my eye caught some very glittery black lurex in one of my fabric boxes in the studio and an idea started to brew. I was going to use the sparkliest fabrics in my collection to create this image. i reached for the gold holographic fabric, the deep orange gold fabric, silver and purple holographic, took out my scissors and began to cut out the shapes, drawing with the scissors as I cut. Instead of rows of yellow buttons for the hair, I used strips of holographic gold fabric and made them into radiating rays . I sewed them all down (breaking a few needles in the process) and embroidered the details in a deep pink. So here is the result:
The applique process left a charming drawing on the inside of the garment:
Here are a few detail shots
The strange thing that happened with this kimono is that with the addition of other sparkles , it toned the original sequinned fabric right down. How odd. I love how rich the kimono ended up . I gave the kimono a deep base border in neon lights Dutch Wax print to make sure it didn’t end up scratching the legs or catching on tights; beautiful and practical.
Last December I was lucky enough to be introduced to one of the loveliest men on the music scene, with the voice of an angel: Vince Kidd. You may remember him as the Billy Idol lookalike on the Voice three years back who gave Jesse J a run for her money when they performed together in the live finals.
Since then Vince has reemerged after a break as a grunge soul singer, looking more Kurt Cobain than Billy Idol but still with that angelic voice. I spent some time with Vince after a Christmas party event where he delivered a beautiful performance. Afterwards we got chatting and he asked me if I’d ever painted on leather jackets before. I replied that I hadn’t but I’d love to give it a go…
So he trusted me with his very heavy black biker leather jacket and I lugged it back home, slightly anxious I might just mess up a perfectly good jacket.
We spoke on social media and he told me about his love for Amy Winehouse and Kurt Cobain. He shared a mixture of his lyrics with me and told me his love for all things psychedelic and religious iconography: all very much in my taste. He mentioned a golden palm tree and the Garden of Eden, and a picture started to emerge of Adam and Eve, the fallen angels in Paradise. I mentioned my obsession with flames and Vince was keen to include them. I found a partner in the ‘more is more’ ethos.
The story starts to emerge
Flames and a sacred heart
The finished back
And Vince in the finished jacket.
So the story of the two fallen angels, Amy Winehouse and Kurt Cobain in the Garden of Eden emerged. Instead of the apple, Amy ( Eve) offers Kurt ( Adam) a plate of magic mushrooms emblazoned with a tempting EAT ME instruction.
The snake curled around the palm tree echoes the pharmacological symbol commonly used historically, representing the evils of drug addiction. The flowers surrounding the couple have skulls nestling amongst them, hinting at the dark inevitability of death . Vince’s lyrics feature above the tree Cherubim and Seraphim they’re taking over everything.
Under the tree ,above the flames , more lyrics : Nature never lies, listen to the flowers. Love’s never gonna die , so let’s waste these hours Living life immortal.
Hellfire licks up the hemline and from the edges of the sleeves.
The front of the jacket features an anatomical sacred heart with a banner with more lyrics : They tell me I should sing about sex and drugs and all that crazy stuff. But even the Bad Kidd falls in love written in tiny letters.
Then larger lyrics run down inside the front zipper flap: Higher than high no you’ll never bring me down. Give what you give , what you give, give , give. Live , fucking live, fucking live , live , live.
Tim the photographer and I, Tim wearing his bespoke jacket. I’m wearing Pearls and Swine headpiece and a necklace by Sue Kreitzman.
Okay, granted, not everyone has the chutzpah and the opportunity to look like some of my friends most of the time, after all we are a rather a colourful lot and are lucky enough to make it part of our everyday lives. It brings us joy and picks us up when life knocks us down.
Here’s the beautiful Marnie Scarlet wearing my c.Art creations . She wears them so well. Photos by Max Deviant.
Sometimes I get asked if I could tone down what I do , to make it more ‘tame’ . I say “Beige off” to that. This is what it is, if I remove the vibrancy, I have nothing left. No, taming it down isn’t the way to make wearable art more wearable. So I put my thinking cap on.
There had to be another way that made my wearable art more accessible to the human on the street.
This is what I came up with: the wearable art neckpiece.
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Perfect for both sexes, they are a bit of flamboyance that can be popped over the London black uniform to transform office wear into the base for a piece of statement art.
The Frida Kahlo neckpieces have proven to be very popular. Each one is different, individuality and uniqueness being at the heart of my brand. Here are pictures of the two latest Frida neckpieces:
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The neckpieces are all padded and quilted, are comfortable to wear and are all hand beaded and sequinned with handpainted elements, making each one completely unique. You can create your own one by sharing with me your own favourite images and colours and let me make your dreams a reality. This process starts from £160 ,( plus post and packaging) and goes up to £200 depending on the amount of beading and number of handpainted elements.
To join the waiting list for your own piece of wearable art, and join the colour tribe , email me on mailto:thebabyfairyfifi@hotmail.com with NECKPIECE your subject line.
So what are you waiting for, you can be a part of the colour tribe too!
I’ve been a bit busy and to be perfectly honest , a bit of a grump. In the last few weeks we’ve had Christmas and New Year and through it all I’ve been feeling rather low. In the spirit of being authentic, which I am currently embracing, rather than being Internet positive for show, I’m holding on to the truth as I’ve witnessed how telling the truth can be extraordinarily powerful. But that story is for another time.
Before the Christmas /Festive period/menopausal blues hit, I had rather a wonderful time . ( See, it’s not all doom and gloom and poor me, this authentic thing) The auction of my two pieces of wearable art , made with the gorgeous offcuts of Tengri Yak cashmere fibre,
took place at the Bookabeat Christmas party at the very lovely Century Club , Soho, along with a fashion show ( done in my way) to showcase some of my wearable art creations so far. And it was f***ing fabulous, even if I do say so myself. (I’ll let you judge for yourself in the photos later on in this post. Do let me know what you think.) I believe that fashion belongs to everyone , not just the industry and those who fit the western standard beauty paradigm, so I was never going to look exclusively to professional models to strut on my catwalk, oh no! ( Although, ahem… a slight disclaimer here, I’m lucky enough to know one or two professional models in my friendship circle who have and do model for me but even they have something deliciously unique about them that makes them stand out). I require human beings to show off my wearable art, preferably human beings whom I love and want to celebrate. So I put out a call on social media for anyone who wanted to help me. I was absolutely spoiled for choice ( lucky me) and I had to turn a few away with the promise of next time. I think this approach is called authentic diversity, which is the absolute opposite of tokenism, which is a rather distasteful and patronising way of going about things. I was also very lucky to have the offer of photography by the very talented Rupert Hitchcox who took the most astonishing photographs at the Vaults Exhibition back in November. What a night that was. I’ll never forget it.
Fast forward to the evening of the party, my delightful friends all arrived all beady eyed and bushy tailed , ready to do their thing. I chose outfits for everyone , did some very basic make up , involving a cotton reel and some face paints ( my children’s entertainer skills came in handy here)
Don’t you just love the face I’m pulling?
Diane Goldie fashion show at the Century Club on Shaftesbury Avenue
Diane Goldie fashion show at the Century Club on Shaftesbury Avenue
Diane Goldie fashion show at the Century Club on Shaftesbury Avenue
Diane Goldie fashion show at the Century Club on Shaftesbury Avenue
everyone chose accessories to go with what they were wearing (everyone is encouraged to express themselves through my wearable art, not my dictating how it should be worn, it’s part of the ethos of the brand) . Headdresses were mostly by Pearls and Swine and Hysteria Machine , both companies run by wonderful women, both friends and fellow creatives.
Then we did a very quick walk through of what was required to showcase the wearable art. It was all fun and games.
Diane Goldie fashion show at the Century Club on Shaftesbury Avenue
Diane Goldie fashion show at the Century Club on Shaftesbury Avenue
Diane Goldie fashion show at the Century Club on Shaftesbury Avenue
Diane Goldie fashion show at the Century Club on Shaftesbury Avenue
Then it was on with the show. We stomped, we gave fierce face, we smiled , we flaunted, we paraded and we showed London how we do. The tribe represented! To say I was proud would be an understatement. And you know how you see backstage at regular fashion shows how everyone is stressed and bitching and fighting? Well, it wasn’t like that at all. We had a blast. I mean, how hard can it be to wear some clothes and walk up and down a room to a stomping beat? Here are the pictures. Let me know your comments below.
Here I am showing off.
Lolo wearing a Frida influenced dress and Day of Dead inspired cape.
Lolo wearing Frida orange dress and brown psychedelic Erykah Badu coat.
Jack in a Frida neckpiece and c.Art rock jacket. Headdress by Pearls and Swine
Deborah working a Frida Kaftan dress , kimono and coordinating fleece hooded cape.
The back of the fleece cape.
Scorpio wearing a skull neckpiece and rock jacket by c.Art
Silvia wears a Frida 50s dress , short Frida kimono jacket and vulva bag. All by c.Art. Headdress by Pearls and Swine.
Beattie modelling a coordinating Frida dress with long Erykah Badu kimono. Headdress by Pearls and Swine.
Jack in a very rock and roll long kimono with Grace Jones body paint image. Headdress by Hysteria Machine.
Magdalene in Sacred Heart sheer top , with neckpiece worn as g string, with a long Frida Kahlo kimono
Magdelene working the open heart theme.
Deborah doing fierce in heaven and hell kimono, and Baune altarpiece dress by c.Art
Modelling my own parrot dress and Carpe Diem Cape.
Jack wearing Wild Cat blazer.
Silvia in a 50s style c.Art dress with a short psychedelic themed cape. Headdress by Pearls and Swine
Beattie working my cosmic eye jacket. Headdress by Pearls and Swine
Scorpio wearing the skull blazer.
Jack in a Ferociously Flamboyant Kimono. Head wear by Pearls and Swine
Back view of Jack’s kimono
The finale. I was so proud of everyone.
I got a clap. Awwww.
The auction of the two pieces was very successful. A good amount of money was raised for the charity Women for Women International.
Here are the two beautiful women who won the pieces at the auction along with Nancy from Tengri and me. I’d lent my flowers to the lovely woman next to me for the photograph.
The night was beautifully ended off with a live performance by the wonderful Vince Kidd. His sweet soulful vocals touched us all. In fact it was the start of a beautiful friendship that night. The tribe grows. The love is spread.
Lolo was thrilled . Two beautiful humans in one photo.
Wasn’t that just beautiful? I love you Vince. xx
Nancy from Tengri, Me, Naomi of bookabeat, and Miss Baby Sol, singer and Tengri brand embassador.
I’d like to thank Naomi and Makeda Peter, the bookabeat twins for inviting me along to this event that was about women supporting women: a cause I can really get behind and Nancy of Tengri for the opportunity of collaborating for such a good cause. One of my favourite phrases is Sisterhood is Subversive. Women bonding and supporting each other is a force for change, contrary to our conditioned response under Patriarchy to compete with and destroy each other. I believe that through love and understanding and coming together as a sisterhood we can really make a difference. Do you?
If you’re a social media animal like me, please come and join us on Facebook.
We’re always looking for more humans to join our tribe. Let’s do this.
I have a mission: to help change the world one person at a time, by helping people be their authentic selves through the clothes they wear. Does that sound crazy? Probably.
Just call me crazy but after I met the ” Typhoid Mary” of colour,
The Goddess of Colour, the one who banishes beige: the inimitable Sue Kreitzman.
Sue Kreitzman, my life most definitely changed, along with the lives of many of those around me. But I’ll be back to explain that moment in another post. In this post I want to share with you the most incredible experience of my life to date : November 3rd 2015, the evening when the colour tribe celebrated and something seemed to be born.
I’ll start at the beginning: I was introduced to an incredible space underneath Waterloo station by a good friend of mine. She took me along to show me an exhibition by a vegan taxidermist called Charlie Tuesday Gates.
The extraordinary , talented human called Charlie Tuesday Gates.
there was a preview of a very dark and surreal puppet show using roadkill and dead donated animals. I fell head over heels in love with Charlie and her world. She was an absolute inspiration to me. The preview turned into a full musical, which impressed me greatly. It made me laugh , cry and think about the impact that meat consumption had on our world. The show played to rave reviews and Charlie had the offer to take it to Edinburgh Festival . A crowdfunder campaign saw me signing up to pledge money to help her achieve this goal. The kick back for this pledge was a weeks exhibition in the Vaults Gallery . What a prize!
The date was set and I was in a position of deciding what to exhibit. Now as a maker and artist at 51 years of age, I find myself with quite a lot of work. I could quite easily fill a gallery with all my own stuff. But that would just be embarrassing… I’ve only just got used to calling myself an artist , with the help of a very beautiful validation painting by Ella Guru .
Giving a speech in front of my Validation portrait by Ella Guru .
I decided the exhibition was to be about the tribe, the bunch of wonderful ,colourful, creative people that surround and inspire me. It was to be my world, where my friends make up a large part of it. I make wearable art, many of my friends have commissioned pieces from me, and the exhibition would be a chance to showcase the clothing and have a bit of a party.
In these grim times, where neo-liberalism preaches about the cult of the individual, where the ‘I’m alright Jack’ way of thinking prevails, after Margaret Thatcher declared the death of society and David Cameron talks about his Big Society ( where we stomp on the most vulnerable and only embrace the middle and upper classes… what a joke!) I wanted to celebrate what I knew to be true: that difference and diversity is beautiful, that vulnerability is also strength, that individuals need to join hands to support others to form a safety network for the most vulnerable and those needing extra support. I consider myself and my friends , beautiful freaks, able to use creativity to do things differently given a nudge in the right direction. So it began.
Friends were invited to participate in the exhibition and the opening was to feature a #fckfashion catwalk along the graffiti tunnels immediately outside the gallery. The venue was perfect for my vision of bringing art from gallery walls into the street on people’s backs , subverting establishment art based on investment, where the art is worth more after the death of the artist and the value depends not on the quality of the work but in the mystery inherent in the piece. The Emperors New Clothes has never been a more pertinent fable for our times.
I’m hoping Kanye is being clever and referencing the fable in his fashion collection in the Youtube clip. I think I’m being kind.
My brand of wearable art, c.Art is about bringing craft’s status up on a par with art. It is feminist in its ideology, craft always being the creative outlet that was what women did since they were not allowed in the life studios of the men artists , I put the small c of craft before the large A of art, to subvert the status and make it on a level. The A of art is also circled, anarchy style in my label, again as a reaction to the role of status in fashion. Art and clothing should be for everyone. Everyone deserves to look and feel good; not just the wealthy or the ones with power.
As the event drew near, I realised I needed music to go with the tribal stomp that was to be our catwalk. Bookabeat to the rescue! Gorgeous friends, Naomi and Makeda who run this live music platform delivered way above my expectations: I was to have the rock goddess Z-Star to lead the beat. Excited wasn’t the word… I adore this musical force of nature! Now I’m just going to post a few of the little videos and pictures of the event and let you feel the vibe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCnLw1KznT8
photo by Rupert Hitchcox of The World of Diane Goldie at the Vaults opening event
Here’s just one example:
It was emotional. There were tears, but most of all smiles and laughter as the tribe spirit was born.
The Goddess of Rock and beats: Z-Star. Once seen,heard and felt, never forgotten.
The entrance to the Vaults Gallery under Waterloo station. The coolest gallery on the planet. Bar none.
Me and the wonderful photographer/human/friend that is Tim Hoy-Griffiths. He is wearing a jacket that he designed and I made.
Me and the extraordinary force of colourful nature that is Funk Cutter of the punk band Anarchist Wood. I adore her. She is wearing a coat of her own design made by me.
Soft sculpture with butterflies at the Vaults Gallery . By me. Photo by Tim Hoy Griffiths.
The delightful , quirky and talented Anne Sophie Cochevelou , costume and jewelry designer extraordinaire, with Florent Bidois.
Birth. A soft sculpture by me.
The Baune Altarpiece Dress , after a painting by Rogier Van Der Weyden. Hand painted , appliqued and embroidered. I’m obsessed with religious iconography and the imagery of heaven and hell, despite not being at all religious.
The tribe celebrates colour and diversity. With Marnie Scarlet, and Sue Kreitzman and my granddaughter, Erykah.
Art on our backs, not on gallery walls. This is the spirit of c.Art wearable art.
“We accept her , we accept her , one of us! One of us!” Leading the #fuckfashion walk down the graffiti tunnels in Waterloo.
Life Study in acrylic on paper . By Diane Goldie.
It’s all about coming together as a community. A big hug from the hugely talented Ella Guru.
A wonderful hand crafted gift from a beautiful man. Thanks David. David Mercer makes wonderful collage pieces with vintage comics.
Listening to the call to action to create a colour tribe as a reaction against Neo-Liberalism and it’s selfish values.
The superstar Marnie Scarlet, my original muse and her wonderful partner Max, who gave me the kick up the bum to stop being shy. I adore these humans. They’re both wearing Diane Goldie c.Art wearable art.
David Mercer’s original c.Art waistcoat .
The delightful carnival world of colour of Anne Sophie Cochevelou
My fairy puppet Babyfairyfifi and she’s holding a crochet self portrait as a children’s entertainer. She’s getting her own back it seems.
You can order your own piece of wearable art and express yourself. It doesn’t have to be technicolour, it’s all about you being the most authentic you , you can be. Dress without fear, dress as if no one is watching. Let’s fuck with fashion. Let’s do it in style.